SS15 CATWALKS – TEXTURES

My analysis of the SS15 fashion week footwear shots from style.com highlighted a variety of different textures.

From patent to woven, here are the top 10 textures featured at New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks.

1. Snake

Clockwise from top left: Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Mary Katrantzou, Loewe, Proenza Schouler, Gucci

Clockwise from top left: Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Mary Katrantzou, Loewe, Proenza Schouler, Gucci

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In shades as varied as natural, orange, and multi-coloured; snake was the dominant texture on the Spring/Summer 2015 catwalks. You won’t want to miss out on this key trend.

2. Woven

Clockwise from top left: Thakoon, Bottega Veneta, Rag & Bone, Giorgio Armani, Alexander Wang, Christian Dior

Clockwise from top left: Thakoon, Bottega Veneta, Rag & Bone, Giorgio Armani, Alexander Wang, Christian Dior

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whether fabric, elastic or leather; numerous designers opted for the crafted look which weaving provides. Feeling inspired? Try making your own with this book.

3. Suede

 

Clockwise from top left: Chanel, Nina Ricci, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Roland Mouret, Chloé

Clockwise from top left: Chanel, Nina Ricci, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Roland Mouret, Chloé

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some designers used suede for a nod to a 1970s aesthetic, whilst others like Roland Mouret opted for an altogether more modern look. How will you incorporate suede into your shoe wardrobe?

4. Studs

Clockwise from top left: Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Miu miu, Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Dolce & Gabbana

Clockwise from top left: Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Miu miu, Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Dolce & Gabbana

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, studs are still in the picture. This season they are used in subtle or playful ways, but never all over a boot, shoe or sandal.

5. Patent

Clockwise from top left: Versace, Marni, Proenza Schouler, Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton, Miu miu

Clockwise from top left: Versace, Marni, Proenza Schouler, Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton, Miu miu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glossy patent leathers are perfect for creating a rich, luscious look on day-to-night footwear. Louis Vuitton went for colour-blocking, Versace and Miu miu offered lip-gloss shades, and Marni and Nina Ricci provided unexpected hues in sandals.

6. Croc

Clockwise from top left: Narciso Rodriguez, Erdem, Balenciaga, Rodarte, Roberto Cavalli, Miu miu

Clockwise from top left: Narciso Rodriguez, Erdem, Balenciaga, Rodarte, Roberto Cavalli, Miu miu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Each designer who used croc textures on their footwear did so in a different way. From Cavalli’s bejewelled silver flatform, to the minimalist white Narciso Rodriguez pointed mule; anything goes as long as it’s croc.

7. Glitter

Clockwise from top left: Marc Jacobs, Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Mary Katrantzou, Saint Laurent, Versace

Clockwise from top left: Marc Jacobs, Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Mary Katrantzou, Saint Laurent, Versace

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sparkly looks came from traditional glitter or mini diamantes. Heels and platforms as well as uppers were decorated to give more or less subtlety.

8. Cut out 

Clockwise from top left: Kenzo, Donna Karan, Comme des Garçons, Versace, Giorgio Armani, Louis Vuitton

Clockwise from top left: Kenzo, Donna Karan, Comme des Garçons, Versace, Giorgio Armani, Louis Vuitton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A clever way to open footwear up for warmer weather and add interest, is to make holes in it. Circular perforations came from Donna Karan and Comme des Garçons. Versace and Kenzo offered different approaches to geometric cut outs, and Giorgio Armani and Louis Vuitton went for curved lines.

9. Satin

 

Clockwise from top left: Giambattista Valli, Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Nina Ricci, Balenciaga

Clockwise from top left: Giambattista Valli, Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Nina Ricci, Balenciaga

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ah the classic evening fabric. Valli, Lauren and Ricci approached their satin footwear in a more traditional heeled way with some neat details. Marc Jacobs, Chanel and Balenciaga used satin to update day-time styles in a new way.

10. Mesh

Clockwise from top left: Burberry Prorsum, Dolce & Gabbana, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Marni, Erdem

Clockwise from top left: Burberry Prorsum, Dolce & Gabbana, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Marni, Erdem

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sporty or sexy; transparent or close-knit: mesh made its way down many catwalks this season. The prize for most feminine goes to the sheer Dolce & Gabbana ankle boot with sumptuous floral embroidery.

 

Now there are no excuses for plain old leather.

 

Coming soon: Key styles on the catwalk

 

All images courtesy of style.com
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SS15 CATWALKS – TOP 10 COLOURS

To give you easy access to the trends, I have analysed all of the SS15 fashion week footwear shots from style.com.

In this post, I show you the top 10 colours used on shoes, sandals, and boots on the New York, London, Milan and Paris catwalks.

1. Black

Clockwise from top left: Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Narciso Rodriguez, Loewe, Miu Miu, Prada

Clockwise from top left: Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Narciso Rodriguez, Loewe, Miu Miu, Prada

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rather predictably, black footwear outnumbered shoes in other colours this season. THE fashion colour still reigns.

2. White

Clockwise from top left: Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Haider Ackermann, Proenza Schouler, Viktor & Rolf

Clockwise from top left: Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Haider Ackermann, Proenza Schouler, Viktor & Rolf

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stark white will be everywhere when the weather begins to warm up again. With trainers having a big influence on shoe fashions currently, it’s no wonder that the classic sportswear colour is so prevalent.

3. Blue

Clockwise from top left: Burberry Prorsum, Chanel, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Derek Lam

Clockwise from top left: Burberry Prorsum, Chanel, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Derek Lam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The surprise new trend colour was blue. From blue denim to copious amounts of Elvis-tastic blue suede, with snake and patent in between.

4. Red

Clockwise from top left: Celine, Donna Karan, Comme des Garçons, Nina Ricci, Dolce & Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood

Clockwise from top left: Celine, Donna Karan, Comme des Garçons, Nina Ricci, Dolce & Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red has traditionally been the overtly sexy option for shoes, and it’s certainly making a comeback. Seen on the catwalks in many different styles and materials predominantly in brighter lipstick shades.

5. Multi

Clockwise from top left: Louis Vuitton, Rochas, Miu miu, Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons, Chanel

Clockwise from top left: Louis Vuitton, Rochas, Miu miu, Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons, Chanel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

O.K. it’s not technically a colour, but there were a lot of multi-coloured shoes this season. From colour-blocking at Louis Vuitton, to multi-coloured strands at Rochas, these were all statement pieces.

6. Camel

Clockwise from top left: Prada, Rag & Bone, Gucci, Jason Wu, Vivienne Westwood, Salvatore Ferragamo

Clockwise from top left: Prada, Rag & Bone, Gucci, Jason Wu, Vivienne Westwood, Salvatore Ferragamo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not since Autumn/Winter 2010 has camel been such an important trend. After black, this is the neutral every woman will want in her shoe wardrobe in SS15.

7. Pink

Balenciaga, Chloé, Miu miu, Fendi, Versace, Kenzo,

Clockwise from top left: Balenciaga, Chloé, Miu miu, Fendi, Versace, Kenzo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pink made its way down numerous runways, bringing overt femininity back to counter recent “boyfriend” trends. Balenciaga offered almost nude satin, whilst Chloé and Versace had strawberry milkshake hues.

8. Gold

Clockwise from top left: Prada, Chanel, Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Celine

Clockwise from top left: Prada, Chanel, Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Celine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In leather, silk brocade, or velvet, the Spring Summer 2015 gold footwear still appeared to make reference to The Great Gatsby’s 1920s decadence.

9. Brown

Clockwise from top left: Givenchy, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Christian Dior, Emilio Pucci, Marni

Clockwise from top left: Givenchy, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Christian Dior, Emilio Pucci, Marni

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tan has been a big colour for footwear for quite a few seasons now, but this season it has been replaced by the aforementioned camel, and the rich darker chocolate browns seen here.

10. Green

Clockwise from left: Mary Katrantzou, Burberry Prorsum, Marni, Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Saint Laurent

Clockwise from left: Mary Katrantzou, Burberry Prorsum, Marni, Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Saint Laurent

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not an obvious colour choice for shoes, but deep emerald, military khaki and moss featured frequently on models’ feet this season. Combined with white, purple or red, the look is softer and easier to pull off.

 

Orange, yellow, purple and silver also graced the catwalks this season, with natural reptile and wood tones also appearing.

Coming soon: Key textures on the catwalk

 

All images courtesy of style.com
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FOLK STILETTO

Just because we’re heading into Autumn, doesn’t mean we have to wear only black and brown shoes zzzz……….

You can still find beautiful and colourful options, such as this ‘poinciana’-coloured stiletto from LK Bennett (yes I Googled poinciana too).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ‘folk-inspired’ embroidery helps to make these pointed courts really special.

I also love the bow detail on the heel, for an extra girly touch.

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COURT WITH A TWIST

When I think of All Saints footwear, I tend to think of biker boots in supple black leather.

This court-shoe style is not only easy-to-wear with the brand’s signature top-to-toe black and grey rock n’ roll looks, but can also work to add edge to your work outfit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Try the black and red rub-off version with your black suit and a red top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The green ponyskin version is more for evenings and events.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grey is a colour which is set to be the next big thing in footwear. It’s an easy to wear neutral, that you can wear with black to avoid the head-to-toe funereal look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If black is your thing, this suede adds a little texture and softness.

 

All versions have kidskin linings, and the stunning metallic and leather heel.

 

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FETISH ON THE HIGH STREET

I love it when the High Street does something a little bit daring, so was pleased to see these über-sexy red heels in Topshop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With a 4½” heel that Westwood or McQueen would be proud of, and fetishistic lace-up fastening: this is a taxi (or bedroom) shoe that wouldn’t look out of place in the Killer Heels exhibition.

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THE ETHICAL DILEMMA

There have been numerous articles and television programmes about the need for us all to eat less meat. The documentary which prompted this article was the Horizon episode “Should We Eat Meat?  – How to Feed the Planet”.

With so much research and information now available, shoe-wearers face some tough ethical dilemmas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The facts

Animals produce greenhouse gases, so the more meat and leather are produced, the more the environment is damaged.

We grow protein crops such as soya to feed the animals. Water and oil are used to grow and transport these crops, and more water and oil are required to rear, slaughter, and transport the meat. If we just ate the soya, there would be less damage to the environment, and we would still get the same amount of protein in our diets. Leather supplies would dwindle.

Let’s not forget the forests which are being felled to provide space to grow crops and graze animals. The decimation of trees contributes to the amount of Carbon Dioxide in the atmosphere.

The more meat is eaten, the cheaper leather becomes, as it is a by-product of the meat industry. If we drastically cut down our global meat consumption, leather which has already suffered from massive price increases over the past few years, will become even more expensive.

I have heard one person in the footwear industry explaining soaring leather and shoe prices, by saying “Americans simply aren’t eating enough meat”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

What about synthetic leather?

Perhaps the solution would seem to be: wear synthetic leather. Most leather substitutes used for footwear are made from polyurethane (or PU). PU is a petro-chemical, derived from oil: a finite resource.

Although PU uses somewhat fewer chemicals, and creates reportedly less toxic waste than the leather tanning process, it still damages the environment. There is also the issue of biodegradability. PU does not biodegrade any more quickly than leather.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The options

1.

Buy leather shoes which you know are going to last a long time, and buy fewer pairs.

If leather prices continue to increase at their current rate, footwear will become less affordable and force us to cut down on our shoe-purchasing habits anyway.

2.

Switch to synthetic leather or fabric footwear, and try to purchase from a company which knows and can explain the impact of its supply chain on the environment.

3.

Tempting but unrealistic: move to a desert island, and go barefoot or wear shoes you have crafted from palm leaves.

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CUTE BOOT

Although Chelsea boots are experiencing a resurgence; they actually go back as far as the mid 1800s, and were reportedly worn “daily” by Queen Victoria.

I saw this slightly lower-topped version in Hobbs at the weekend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This pair have an elegant slanted V cut, which reveals the striped elastic. The toe-shape is neat and petal-shaped, and the leather lining means your feet will remain cool and comfortable.

The best thing about Chelsea boots is how easy they are to get on and off. When you’re late leaving the house, these boots will be your saviour.

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HAIRY FOOTWEAR INVASION

You may have read my post featuring Simone Rocha’s incredibly furry flats, but now fur or faux-fur shoes are everywhere.

Here are a few of the most outrageous:

William Okpo x Brother Vellies

William Okpo x Brother Vellies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Acne Studios

Acne Studios

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Giuseppe Zanotti

Giuseppe Zanotti

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

René Caovilla

René Caovilla

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Would you dare to wear hair?

P.S. The Margiela boots were worn by Kanye West on his Yeezus tour.

 

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MARGIELA

I’m a big fan of the unexpected looks bestowed upon us by designers each season. I particularly like to see the new and exciting footwear carrying models down the catwalk each season.

These soft green leather ankle boots from Maison Martin Margiela were certainly unexpected.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do they remind anyone else of a certain DreamWorks character?

 

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MIU MIU GUN SHOES

If The Shoe Consultant was giving out awards, Miu Miu would win the prize for inspiring but wearable designer footwear. Season after season, Miu Miu never fails to charm and delight its customers.

The majority of the AW14 footwear collection is as sweet as always, but one print stands out as being more edgy than the norm.

 

 

 

 

 

These seemingly innocent pointed-toed mary-janes have a 1960s-style print, which at closer glance reveals a gun motif. The imagery reminds me of the James Bond Gun Barrel Sequence.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you like your Miu Mius heeled, and your pistol-print blue-based, you might prefer the pointed stiletto version.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For sneaker lovers, the metal toe-cap look slip-on is the comfortable way to sport this look.

BUT…should gun imagery be played with in this way? Is this just a harmless, fun print, or is it highly controversial when many of us would prefer to discourage gun use?

Have your say in the comments or tweet me @shoeconsultant

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